As American wineries struggle, is ‘Buy American’ the solution?
Earlier this year, winemaker Patrick Cappiello of Monte Rio Cellars, a small producer of wines from Lodi and Mendocino in California, made a dramatic plea in an Instagram post to his 37,000 followers.
“American wineries are struggling right now,” he said. “We have a huge amount of inventory and a huge decrease in sales… Drink our wines, buy our wines,” Cappiello implored, challenging his followers to “buy only American wine for two months.” Because otherwise, many American wineries you love will go out of business, he warned.
Cappiello’s appeal sparked widespread discussion in an industry facing a glut of global production coupled with sharp downward trends in consumption. Globally, wine consumption has decreased by 13% in 2023 from peak figures in 2007. And in the U.S., where the number of wineries has increased 4% annually since 2010 to over 11,000 wineries in 2022, wine sales have faltered as increasingly health-conscious consumers are drinking less alcohol, or seeking alternatives to wine like spirits, cannabis or premade canned cocktails.